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Naples

Thursday, 21 March 2024 10:58 am
falena: (Sherlock BBC) Sherlock holding a DSLR camera against a yellow background (photography - not quite a genius)

I went to Naples to celebrate my 40th with my BFF Marianna and my friend Francesca from high school. A long weekend away where I could be just myself (not a parent, not a wife, not even a teacher) , eat lots of food and explore a new place in the company of two of my oldest friends was, quite predictably, FANTASTIC. It was also the perfect chance to take my new - used - mirrorless camera for a spin!

What can I say about Naples, it's one of the oldest and most densely-populated cities in Italy, with only two full days we barely scratched the surface of what to see...I had an inkling I was going to like it, but I didn't expect how much. It was just SO familiar. A city squeezed between the hills and the Mediterranean, with a vast historical city centre made up of a maze of alleys...Yeah, it does ring a bell. As I wrote over on Instagram, Naples basically feels like Genova on steroids, lol. It's so busy, bordering on manic, and full of the zest for life we all associate with Southern Italy (I'm sure it's played up for the tourists), the traffic is as mad as you expect... Quite often the sheer quantity of people (locals and tourists) felt overwhelming. Must be because it's been a while since I was in Rome or Venice last, but I honestly didn't remember the crowds there being this exhausting. It might be a sign of me getting old. :P

Anyway, we decided to skip Pompeii and the other archeological sites on purpose because next year Gaia is studying Ancient Rome in school and I want to come back with my family and just explore the Roman bits. So mostly we walked all around downtown Naples kinda aimlessly, stopping only when our feet hurt too much (we walked over 20K steps each day) and/or we wanted to try one of the many culinary delights on offer.

I must report I'm pretty happy with my mirrorless Canon (which is an old model I got second-hand off Francesca's dad), it's light enough and my back didn't bother me at all despite all the walking. This is MASSIVE for me, the main reason I no longer carried my DSLR was that my back hurt too much. I stuck to mostly automatic settings and the all-purpose basic lens it came with, but considering I'm most definitely not a pro I can already tell it meets my basic requirements. Most excitingly, I was able to download my pics via bluetooth/wifi immediately and edit them on my phone in our B&B, which is the sole reason I'm now posting them in a timely fashion. I miss a wide-angle lens, I do have an adapter mount to keep on using my wide-angle lens (and all the other cheap lenses I bought for my DSLR, this is the main reason I stuck to Canon), but I didn't bring all of that with me this time. I mostly used my Pixel 7 when I needed a wider angle.

Pics under here, a mix of camera and smartphone shots )

Of course you can't go to the South of Italy without seriously overating. But this entry is too long already, so I'll simply link you to the relevant IG post.

Holiday in Garfagnana

Saturday, 22 July 2023 06:44 pm
falena: a blue suitcase against a blue background, above the suitcase we can read the word 'escape' (travelling)

Since I don't want for things to go the way they did for my entry about our lovely little trip to Alta Tuscia (=Northern Lazio) last year, where I had technological issues that prevented me from editing my camera pics for about 7 months and then I forgot almost everything about it (my memory is truly horrid, I'm not exaggerating) and I kinda got lazy and lost all enthusiasm about it, I'm going to make a post about the trip with my horrible phone pictures. After all, the purpose of this entry is precisely to preserve those memories for myself, I hope you guys won't think ill of me if the photos are bad.

MASSIVE post with LOADS of pics )

All in all it was a great holiday, I am happy about how it turned out, every family member got something out of it. And since one thing I hate about social media is how perfect everything looks - F and I fought a couple of times about silly things - mostly when the girls were complaining about something and we were hot and/or tired. The girls get car-sick extremely easily and they do not like playing tourist, so they took a lot of convincing. Sometimes I felt like a bloody drill sergeant just to get the whole family out of the house in time to reach whatever destination we had in mind for the day (timekeeping is not F's forte)...the usual, you know? And yet this is still my kind of holiday and I feel privileged I got to share it with my family, warts and all.

Written with StackEdit.

Brescia

Sunday, 19 January 2020 05:42 pm
falena: a blue suitcase against a blue background, above the suitcase we can read the word 'escape' (travelling)
I just want to write up our three-day visit in Brescia at the beginning of the month, before I forget all the details.

We chose Brescia because it's easily reacheable by train ( 2 hours and 15 minutes using intercity trains, rathern than the cheaper but slower local ones), and we wanted to avoid being on the road at the end of Xmas break, one of the busiest times of the year, especially now that motorways around our town are riddled with construction work. On top of that, it's also a small, compact town, so eaasy to explore on foot even with young kids who are prone to hissy fits when tired. :D

Practical considerations aside, I was quite keen to visit Brescia because it apparently is the largest Roman archeological area in Northern Italy. I just love Roman ruins, and Brescia, or Brixia as the Latins called it, did not disappoint.

Another interesting and peculiar bit of Brescia's history was that it was an important centre during the Longobard rule (apparently I'm meant to call them Lombards in English, I can't, though, it feels weird to me, as in Italian Lombard means something else - but anyway the Longobards were a Germanic people who ruled in Northern Italy after the fall of the western Roman empire, i.e. in the very early middle ages). This can be seen in particular in the monastic complex of Santa Giulia and San Salvatore, a former monastery now turned into a museum. I absolutely loved visiting it as it contained bits of architecture and manufacts from all sorts of different historical periods, starting from the Bronze age, and moving on to Roman ruins, Longobard stuff, Romansque buildings and even Reinassance ones.  It's not particularly unusual in Italy, we have loads of sites where different historical layers are just piled up on top of each other, but in the former monastery it was so evident. 
 
The rest of  the historical city centre town was a nice mix of medieval and Reinassance buildings, with the exception of a big square that was redone during Fascism, full of Rationalist architecture, which I hate and thus didn't even take a pciture of.
 
We'd rented a flat, because with young kids I far prefer  self-catering to hotels and then having to find places to eat out at. Yeah, this means I had to cook, but I actually made a quiche the day before leaving  and then bought some essentials in a supermarket there, to whip up easy dinners at night, so it was no great bother. Staying in is still far more relaxing than having to find a retaurant  in the evening, when the girls are tired and more prone to meltdowns, and then spending the whole meal on tenterhooks to try and get everyone fed quickly before we turn into a nuisance for the other customers. I don't mind eating out at lunch time, instead, when we can be in restaurant very early, before peak hour, and the girls are more rested anyway. Indeed both times we ate out at lunchtime the restaurateurs complimented us on how well behaved the girls were, and I can't lie, I was proud, because  F and I always make a lot of effort in ensuring they are entertained but quiet (without restorting to giving them our phones, which is a habit I don't want to encourage).
 
The thing I enjoyed the most, other than the aforementioned attractions, is...the climate. We were blessed with three sunny but cold days.  I loved having to wear hats and gloves and feeling the cold biting my face. See,  my town is right on the Mediterranean, so it's easy to forget that we don't really get a proper winter. As soon as you cross the Appennines, though, you no longer feel the influence of the sea, and even if those of you live farther north would still find winters in the Po plain pretty balmy, they are noticeably colder than what passes for winter in Genova. 

Pics )

Elba part 2

Friday, 3 May 2019 10:23 pm
falena: (Sherlock BBC) Sherlock holding a DSLR camera against a yellow background (photography - not quite a genius)

Sorry I am so quiet here guys. I think you can understand, though, as [livejournal.com profile] briasoleil and I see each other in person only once every two year, so when she's here I try to limit my online time.

Here's the last batch of pics from our Elba stay. Read more... )

falena: Variation on the 'keep calm and carry on' British wartime sign. Background colour: turquoise. (keep calm and snap on)

On Friday baby and I headed off to Torino (Turin), to visit a friend of mine who temporarily moved there for work. I really like Torino, it's one of my favourite cities in Northern Italy, so I jumped at the excuse to visit it. Funnily enough, the last time I had been there was 8 years ago, visiting the very same friend who was, at the time, studying at the Polytechnic University there. This visit also worked as a bit of a trial run, to see if I can manage going to visit [livejournal.com profile] space_oddity_75 in Varese with both girls on my own. I wanted to see if the baby is 'portable', much like her older sister was when she was the same age, and I'm happy to report she is. She basically slept the whole day, which was not a surprise considering I pushed her around in her buggy for 5 consecutive hours (I walked a lot. No idea how much as I'd put my smartphone in the buggy, so it the steps counter didn't work properly).

I got to Turin by train, splurging for an Intercity ticket rather than the cheaper regional train, and I'm glad I did, as the train was basically deserted both ways and I was then able to lay down the baby on two seats or walk her down the aisle in her buggy (I wouldn't have dreamed of attempting either even on a moderately busy train, of course). I just love travelling by train, it's my favourite means of transport. Since the baby was so well-behaved, I also managed to get quite abit of reading done, an unexpected boon for my really poor reading track record in 2019 so far (I'm totally going to fail my GR challenge, saaad).

It was an unexpectedly warm and lovely sunny day, and I had a couple of hours to kill before my friend could join me for lunch so decided to walk to Monte dei Cappuccini, the nearest hill overlooking the city centre, right on the bank of the river Po. I was hoping to get a good view over the city and the ring of the Alps at its back. Despite some smog, the sky was clear enough and the view didn't disappoint.

Cut for pics )

Turin picspam

Monday, 7 February 2011 07:31 pm
falena: (la vie en rose)
Yesterday I went to Turin to visit my friend C., who's been living there for the past two years while she's studying for her master's at the Polytechnic Univerisity.

I've been meaning to visit her for aaaaaages but never managed to find the time (mostly because I'm lazy and since Turin is only a two-hour train ride's away from Genova it means C comes back every other weekend and I still get to see her regularly).

Thing is, she's graduating in a few weeks, so this was my last chance to have a wander around town with her. And you know what? The weathergods must have decided to reward me for finally getting off my lazy bum, because we got the most glorious, sunny and definitely spring-like day since...September, I suppose. In hindsight, chances are it was actually the weathergods wanting to have a good laugh at my expense (how very Greek of them). Here I was, naively thinking 'Well, I'm going up north, behind the Appennines, well into the dreaded Po plain and nearly at the foot of the Alps - it'll be cold!', so I wrapped up warm with quite a few layers - of course I ended up sweating like a pig, carrying around all those useless layers in a very bulky bundle the whole day. (Why yes, I am whinging Genoese).

By the way, [personal profile] lilmoka, while I was on the train up I suddenly remembered you actually live in Turin and felt a right fool because maybe we could have met up (if you don't find meeting online people in RL weird or anything, of course - personally I love meeting my i-friends but I know it's not everyone's cup of tea). Only I didn't have your mobile number and of course my ratty old mobile has no internet access so I couldn't even try to contact you on here...Oh well, perhaps next time.

I hadn't been to Turin in quite a long while --I think the last time I was there I was still in secondary school, it was a field trip to the Rivoli Museum and the time before I was in primary school, for the classic trip to the Egyptian Museum Turin has LOTS to offer in the way of museums, for those if you're into that and looking for an Italian destination a bit off the beaten track.

Given my horrid, horrid memory, it's no surprise Sunday felt like my first visit to the city. It was an extremely pleasant re-discovery, anyway.
First of all, despite being the gourth biggest town in Italy, Turin was definitely what we'd call vivibile (Italian, literally 'livable'). It's probably because it's completely flat and built on a grid system, a legacy of its Roman origins, which means that all its streets intersect perpendicularly - a rare thing for historical Italian towns (and extremely baffling for Genoese me - I find all those straight lines a bit disturbing, to be perfectly frank).


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See, straight streets everywhere. And on a crips day like yesterday, you could see the Alps peeking in at the end of some streets. Lovely! Of course, C tells me that on the average foggy day you can't see further than you own nose, but hey, we were lucky.

Corollary #1 of the extremely flat, extremely straight and extremely large streets: there's miles of cycling paths and you can cycle everywhere. Guys, I wouldnt' trade living on the Mediterranean for anything, but on a bad day when I'm stuck in a smelly bus in fully-gridlocked Genova, I might be tempted to move somehwere like Turin, where I could just hop on a bike and say goodbye to motorised transport. *wistful sigh*

Corollary #2: Turin people can't park. Look at the cars left in the middle of a road where trams pass both ways!!!! And the waste of space left between each of the awkwardly parked cars, my god, in Genova you'd find your car vandalised by (rightfully fuming) drivers who could have squeezed in there, had you bothered to park decently and tight. Me, the boy and C were all outraged.


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The other notable feature of Turin is that four major rivers pass through it: the Po and two of its tributaries, the Po being the only River worthy of its name in the boot. In the sunshine it looked awfully pretty:


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If I had to describe Turin in two words I'd say: elegant and poised. You can totally tell it used to be the capital of Italy back when we were still a kingdom. It is, indeed, the closest thing to royal I've seen down here and the adjective regal is actually quite appropriate.

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Inside il Parco del Valentino. From right to left: Valentino Castle, two shots of the Medieval Borgo (which was actually built in the late 19th century - fake Medieval stuff, how unnecessary) and the Fountain of the Seasons.


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Walking along the Po: a very straight tree-lined avenue, an unmistakable statue of Garibaldi (hero of the Unification of Italy) and the Church of the Great Mother.


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The Mole Antonelliana, the symbol of Turin,. It houses the National Museum of Cinema, as the it can be easily guessed.


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The heart of royal Turin: Palazzo Reale and the Chruch of San Lorenzo (which was the Savoys' private chapel - the Savoys are our former royal family). As you can see in the thrid pic on the right, the lovely square is marred by a finger-pointing-upwards-shaped monster of a building - guess what? This will come as a surprise to none of the Italians among you, it was built during the Fascism. Seriously, if there was nothing wrong with Fascism already it'd be declared a crime against humanity just because of themonstrosities Mussolini & co had built all over Italy. Ugh.


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The Cathedral (rather unimpressive, though it contains the Holy Shroud, for those interested in such things) and the Palatine Towers.


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Strolling around the Quadrilatero Romano, the oldest bit of the city centre, of Roman origins. I felt more at ease in the narrower streets (still not what i'd call an alley, by Genoese standards). They also had lovely wrought-iron balconies which prompted one of those endless and amusing word-related discussions Italians are surely familiar with. The Italian word for balcony poggiolo, which we use in Genova, is not used Italy-wide (of course, I found this out in Sicily). It's one of the many 'regionalisms' that always throw us for a loop when Italians from different corners of the boot get together and then have troubles understanding each other as they talk of the most mundane things.

Actually I think I just worked out the perfect sentence to throw at a random Italian and find out where he/she is from. "Could you please go out on the balcony, take the rubbish which is in the shopping bag and take it outside? Be careful, though, bits of chewing gum and cigarette butts might spill out." Hahaha. I dare my Italian i-friends to translate this, I'm sure it'll be fun.


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Last but not least, Turin is famous for its chocolate and cafés. Probably because when it's cold and foggy, you just want to hide inside a warm café, sipping coffee and gorging on chocolate. So, C brought us in one of the oldest cafés in town, to taste a typical hot drink called Bicerin (literally - small glass). It was as yummy as it looked.

All in all it was a lovely day. The boy and I decided we'll be paying Turin another visit at some point in the future - we do want to have a good look at the Egyptian Museum, since it's the largest collection of Ancient Egypt aretfacts, after the one in Cairo.

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